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Lecture 11. Spices, condiments and flavorings

Summary

The term spice has no botanical definition. It refers to various dried barks, roots, leaves, seeds, fruits and flowers used as condiments, flavourings or culinary herbs. These plant parts are chosen because they add a characteristic flavour and aroma when added to food and beverages. Many of the chemicals responsible for these distinctive tastes and smells are compounds known as volatile or essential oils. These are largely contained in the plant, in oils cells, secretion ducts or glandular hairs. They are often associated with resins or gums, and tend to resinify on exposure to air. Essential oils – whether distilled or conserved in the plant – are used therapeutically, for flavoring and in perfumery. Curiously, most of the spices in world trade come from the Eastern Hemisphere, though there are some examples from the New World (Pimenta dioica, Theobroma cacao (if considered a spice) and Vanilla spp.) International trade in spices (e.g. sale of nutmeg from Banda to India) was already being practised in the 5th century. The search for the source of spices and efforts to create monopolies in their harvest and trade were a major reason for European exploration and colonization of the world, beginning late in the 15th century.

Examples:

  • Zingiberaceae is a medium-sized family of 49 genera and 1300 genera, found in tropical areas. It is particularly diverse in the Indomalaya region. Zingibers are herbs, often robust, that have branched fleshy rhizomes or tuberous roots. The leaves, which emerge from the rhizome in two distinct ranks, have blades that are large with numerous, closely parallel nerves coming from the midrib. The inflorescence is a dense head or cyme (although the flowers are occasionally solitary). The flowers are irregular and bisexual, with a unique and complex structure, including a distinctive two- or three-lobed lip called the labellum. The ovary is inferior, composed of three fused carpels. The fruit is a brightly colored and sometimes very fleshy capsule. The family is primarily known as a source of spices and perfumes, but also medicines, dyes and ornamentals. The most commercially important species is Zingiber officinale, ginger, which evolved in Southeast Asia but is no longer found in the wild. It was used as a spice and medicine India and China since ancient times, was known to the Greeks and Romans, and is now planted in many tropical areas. Curcuma longa yields turmeric, one of the main colorings and aromatic ingredients of curry powder. Galangal (Alpinia galanga, also called Siamese ginger, is used as a condiment in Thailand and elsewhere. Cardamom (Elletaria cardamomum), which grows wild in the monsoon forests of South India and Sri Lanka, and is cultivated in other areas, including Guatemala.
  • Piperaceae has only five genera, but 2000 species. Its distribution is pantropical, and it is most frequent in rain forests. Its primary economic plants are pepper and kava. They are shrubs, herbs and small trees, and less commonly sometimes vines and epiphytes. The leaves are alternate, simple, entire and dotted with glands containing pungent aromatic oil, and with winged petioles that sheath a jointed stem. The small flowers are borne in the axils of small peltate bracts on dense fleshy spikes. The fruit a berry or drupe. Piper nigrum is the source of black pepper, the most commonly consumed spice in the world. It is originally from the Western Ghats of South India (where it still grows wild), but is now cultivated in many tropical countries. P. methysticum, from the Western Pacific, is commonly called kava, the national beverage of Fiji and other Pacific nations, which is a mild narcotic sedative. Piper betle is an Indomalaysian species whose leaves are used as a masticatory from East Africa to India and Indonesia, together with betel nut.
  • Iridaceae is a medium sized family of about 70 genera and 1800 species. The family is cosmopolitan in distribution. Found in both tropical and temperate regions, it is particularly diverse in South Africa, the eastern Mediterranean and Central and South America. They are perennial herbs that have corms, rhizomes or rarely bulbs. The leaves narrow and linear, tough in texture, and commonly arranged in two rank, like a fan. The flowers are bisexual, and have six perianth segments. The ovary is inferior. Apart from saffron, there are many ornamentals, and a medicinal, orris root (Iris germanica). The dried stigmas of saffron (Crocus sativus) are the world’s most expensive spice. It takes 200,000 dried stigmas from 70,000 flowers to produce one pound of saffron. Originally from Asia Minor, it has been cultivated in the Mediterranean since ancient times. The main areas of cultivation are Spain, Turkey and India, but it is produced in other countries such as Morocco.
  • Other plant families which yield spices and culinary herbs:
    • Myrtaceae (Syzygium)
    • Myristicaceae (Myristica)

References:

Dove, M.R. 1997. The "banana tree at the gate": perceptions of production of Piper nigrum (Piperaceae) in a seventeenth century Malay State. Economic Botany 51:347-361.

Lebot, V. M. Merlin, and L. Lindstrom. 1997. Kava: The Pacific Elixir. The Definitive Guide to its Ethnobotany, History and Chemistry. Rochester, Healing Art Press.

Questions for discussion:

  • How can we explain the fact that most commercially important spices are of Old World origin?
  • Can you think of any New World spices that are commercially important, apart from those mentioned above?

Perspective for discussion:

The "Story of Lambu Mangkurat and the Dynasty of the Kings of Banjar and Kota Waringin", more commonly known as the Hikayat Banjar, is the indigenous, court-based chronicle of a coastal Malayic kingdom that existed in South-East Borneo until 1860, although the chronicle itself only covers up until 1661… The Hikayat contains a passage well-known to historians, but whose economic botanical implications have never been analyzed, in which its founder and ruler issues an injunction against the cultivation of sahang or black pepper.

[E]arly in the seventeenth century, the Sultan of Aceh ordered the destruction of pepper vines in the vicinity of the capital, because their cultivation was leading to the neglect of food crops and to consequent annual food shortages. He also reports that Banten "cut down its pepper vines around 1620 in the hope that this would encourage the Dutch and English to leave the sultanate in peace, though self-sufficiency must have been an additional reason… The proscription or destruction of natural resources by those without sufficient power to resist their exploitation by others is not uncommon."

From Dove, M.R. 1997. The "banana tree at the gate": perceptions of production of Piper nigrum (Piperaceae) in a seventeenth century Malay State. Page 347.

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